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November 20 Fashion FunThis past Monday night the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund dinner gala was held at Skylight Studios with John Galliano as the keynote speaker. Founded by the CFDA and Vogue magazine, the fund was conceived as an “accelerator” of fashion careers. This year’s Fashion Fund recipient was Alexander Wang which included $200,000 and mentoring. Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhal of Vena Cava and Albertus Q. Swanepoel of Albertus Quartus were the runners-up. Each will receive $50,000 and a business mentor.
I arrived at Skylight Studios for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards with Piper Perabo, who was wearing a gold embroidered dress from my Spring collection. It was both nerve-racking and exciting being on the spot as one of the 10 finalists. I've become friends with many of the designers in the fund, and it all felt like a family affair. I ran into Justin Giunta and Piper Perabo going in, and had a brief minute to catch up and share our nervous anticipation for the awards. Winning was a big deal. It was huge for me personally, but also for my company. To have your peers vote for you is a serious honor. Whatever happened, I knew I was in great company! It's nice to come to an awards ceremony where i'm not nominated! I'm just happy to have been a part of it. As a group of young designers, we encounter the same challenges.
This is such an important thing, Skylight was decked all in white, very elegant, and very Vogue, with our Norman Jean Roy-shot pictures printed on canvas hung around the wall. It was all a little bit surreal for me. The keynote speaker was John Galliano, whom I had admired for many years while I was a student at Central Saint Martins. He spoke about his career from past to present, and I couldn't help but be inspired by it all. I was relieved that it was all over.
I headed to Beatrice with Lisa Smilor and Philip Crangi for an impromptu afterparty, where we were met by many of the finalists. At the end of the night, I jumped in my Lexus-sponsored ride to head home to pack for the next day. It's back to work for this designer and I'll be hosting a trunk show at Satine boutique in L.A. in less than 24 hours!* It is...after all, all in a days work. i'm would never brag, but Lucy Liu is hosting and Kate Mara is slated to attend! Sorry, darling, we had to share. after this, I'm looking forward to the holidays. I'm going to Eva [Amurri's] house upstate for Thanksgiving!
June 04 The 2008 CFDA Fashion Awards and Cocktail PartyThe lobby of the New York Public Library was transformed into an English garden for Monday night's Upstairs at the Library CFDA Awards viewing party, complete with wicker garden furniture, sisal rugs, cheery floral arrangements and trailing ivy draped from the marble balconies. While up-and-coming designers like Erin Fetherston and Nima Taherzadeh sipped champagne amid the topiary-strewn video monitors, fashion and Hollywood heavyweights strolled up the red carpet around the corner on 42nd Street before being whisked into an auditorium in the basement of the library for the 2008 CFDA Fashion Awards gala (which, truth be told, felt much less grand and gracious than in years past, due to the poorly planned logistics - and us vs them politics - of separating the fashion world into exclusionary Upstairs/Downstairs gatherings). Womenswear Designer of the Year nominee Marc Jacobs arrived with a giggling Victoria Beckam on his arm - he sporting brand-new mutton chops, she in a one-shouldered heart strewn confection. Eva Mendes posed with her date (and Womenswear nominee), Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein, while further down the photo op line, Eva Longoria struck posed with Menswear nominee Tom Ford while the flashbulbs popped like crazy. Naomi Campbell dazzled in autumn/winter 2008 YSL, accompanied by the ginormous André Leon Talley, who wore a pink snakeskin coat and a bejeweled white turban, making him look like a Jolly Green style swami. But the most memorable - and comical - red carpet moment came when 30 Rock star Tina Fey was posing for the photographers and suddenly got a panic stricken look on her face. "Anna's coming!" she mouthed silently to the photographers while pointing frantically towards the street, before sprinting out of the way to let lensman snap Vogue editrix Anna Wintour. Let the Awards begin! CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg opened with the usual ceremonial blah blah, followed by MC Fran Lebowitz, who made a few barbed stand-up style jokes before introducing Calvin Klein, who gave a heartfelt speech honoring Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award winner, Carolina Herrera. The designer's work was showcased in a lovely black and white film that featured models striding around the streets of New York, with only their CH finery shown in glorious Technicolor. After thanking her hardworking staff, Herrera closed by thanking New York "for opening your arms to me". The audience opened its arms to Accessory Design winner Tory Burch, who beat out Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors for the prize, which was presented by Tina Fey and SNL's Amy Poehler. A clever video montage showed a trio of girls wearing Marc Jacobs' accessories to get cupcakes at Magnolia Bakery, sporting Burch to go dancing at Beatrice Inn and donning Kors to ride around town in the back of a limo. "Wow, thank you," said the visibly choked up Burch. "This is beyond surreal." Also surreal: turning around backstage and literally bumping into Board of Director's Special Tribute recipient Michael Bloomberg (aka, New York City's Mayor), and presenter Ralph Lauren. Th-a-a-at's fashion, folks! Fittingly, Sex and the City vixen Kim Cattrall announced the "incredibly sexy" Menswear nominees (Michael Bastian, Thom Browne and Tom Ford). "[Men's] is what they felt I'd really be best at," she told me backstage after presenting. "I guess because Samantha's such a man eater." Tom Ford took home the trophy after the audience viewed a very funny take-off of the HBO series In Treatment, in which each of the three nominees had a faux therapy session with Gabriel Byrne's character, Dr. Paul Weston - during which they discussed their work and challenges therein. "It was easy," said Ford of filming the mockumentary (which was done by splicing the designers into existing footage from the show). "I used to be an actor before I was a designer - I was never a good actor as you saw, which is why I became a fashion designer. But it was fun." As for winning the award, Ford told me that "when your own industry - and a great industry, I might add - nominates you for this award, it's the equivalent, if you're an actor or a director, of getting an Academy Award in that your peers are voting for you." "So that makes it very meaningful and really kind of validates for you what you've done. It's also my first CFDA award as Tom Ford and my own company and so that means a lot to me, too." Victoria Beckham was just happy to make it offstage without flubbing any of her lines after having joined forces with Eva Mendes and Maggie Gyllenhaal to present the Womenswear Designer of the Year Award to Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa - who was nominated alongside Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez (ironically, the same designers he was nominated with back in 2006, the first time he won). "I always get so nervous," Posh confided to me. "I'm rubbish, absolutely rubbish at doing things like that. I just glad it's over and done with. I've sung in front of millions of people but when it comes to doing something as simple as talking, I completely go to pieces..." Costa also appeared as though he might go to pieces, but for a different reason entirely. "I think [winning a second time] means more, actually," he said softly while staring incredulously as the trophy in his hand. "I swear, it really does." Why? "Because they voted for me again, it's not a fluke. I don't know, somehow it feels like it's substantiating, you know what I mean? Like the industry really recognises you once again; that you work so hard. "It means everything," said Rodarte's Laura Mulleavy after she and her sister, Kate, won the Swarovski Womenswear Award (Alexander Wang and Thakoon Panichgul had also been nominated). "It's just a big moment, and it's very hard to describe it because when you go and sit in the audience, you feel so overwhelmed by everyone there and the history of the business and how everyone comes together to celebrate something we all do." Philip Crangi was also celebrating a big win for Accessory Design. "It's really amazing. I really didn't think I would be winning this time. Justin Giunta [of Subversive] is an amazingly talented guy and Joy Gryson's work is so great," he said of his fellow nominees. "I just thought it was a pretty level playing field. So I feel very lucky to have won." Although he found being on stage "quite scary," International Award Winner Dries Van Noten said he was thrilled to be recognised by the American fashion industry because "it's confirmation that people like what I do." Monday is such a big day for the designers that we decided to keep it casual, resplendent in a Diane von Furstenberg dress and Christopher Kane for Swarovski necklace. The annual soiree had, in years past, taken place at Top of the Rock in a much more formal setting. It's more down to earth this way, as Nadja Swarovski personally greeted each arriving guest along with CFDA executive director Steven Kolb underneath components of the "Light Sock" chandelier artwork created by Diller Scofidio + Renfro for Swarovski Crystal Palace. Four of the floors of the five-story building were open for curiosity seekers, each level had its own theme. Rodarte's Kate and Laura Mulleavy, Thakoon Panichgul, Stan Herman and Philip Crangi enjoyed the house Cuban band called Grupo Irek that performed on the main floor (lead signer, Chino Pons, startled some staunch Democrats with his uncanny resemblance to Senator Barack Obama), while a buffet feast was served on the second floor much to the delight of Maria Cornejo, Simon Doonan, Doo-Ri Chung, Patrik Ervell and Scott Sternberg. A third floor was also open, but few braved the steep stairs in their stilettos. It's kind of like a very chic bordello townhouse in New Orleans. me with, and dressed, Paula Patton (Chanel Iman, meanwhile, also donned Kors, but utilized the belt as a head wrap). The five-time accessories nominated designer joked that, having failed to pick up a statue, she's already grown accustomed to the scenario. I'm beyond all of that by this point. Joan Allen told me that the last time she was nominated, for the third time, at the Oscars, she just had fun. The new format—an awards ceremony followed by dinner, rather than the traditional mix of the two—was pretty much a success all around. Brevity, is the soul of wit. And last night's faster, shorter, funnier CFDA Awards. I think it's the best one I've ever been to. A list of all the CFDA winners WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORY DESIGN May 11 The Costume Institute's Party of The Year--Red Carpet and Cocktail PartyThe select few who are lucky enough to snag an invite to the annual Costume Institute gala (a.k.a. the Oscars of the East) are encouraged, nay, obliged, to push the sartorial envelope. And with this year's "Superheroes" theme—one that's brimming with caped possibility—the task appeared almost too easy. But as it turned out, many of the glitterati making their way up the steps of New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art had circumvented the theme and opted for glamour served straight up. Fortunately for the ever-growing group of stylewatchers who monitor this event with the intensity of a comic-book nerd on the trail of a first-run copy of Spider-Man, others embraced the night's motif. Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour, who co-hosted the gala with Giorgio Armani, Julia Roberts, and George Clooney, set the tone in a space-age Chanel couture bolero and gown, modeled after the X-Men's Storm. Lake Bell, a guest of the magazine, wore a Balmain dress zipping with Shazam lightning bolts picked out in crimson beads. Certainly Claire Danes looked tough (and chic) enough to save lives in a graphic, strappy Narciso Rodriguez gown. And in her gold, almost winged Atelier Versace dress, a glowing Amber Valletta took the superhero to heavenly heights. Gareth Pugh, meanwhile, was dressed as Karl Lagerfeld, giant rings and all. His rationale: ″I came as my superhero.″ Some guests were first-timers to the Met and its attendant paparazzi gauntlet. "When they take a photo of me, I'm just like, 'Oh, my God, that's amazing that you know who I am,'" A frazzled Blake Lively accidentally knocked a tape recorder out of a reporter's hand. "Oh, my gosh, I am so sorry," she said, sounding genuinely mortified. "My superhero power is breaking your thing." Of course, with an event as major as this, merely getting dressed requires near-heroic feats. "My husband put my Spanx on me tonight because I had wet nails," said Thandie Newton. Once inside, guests were ushered past three enormous Nathan Crowley statues of Batman, Superman, and Wonder Woman and into the Temple of Dendur, where trumpeters heralded the dinner call. "Hail Caesar!" joked Chris Noth. At the Armani table, Julia Roberts and Victoria Beckham bonded over motherhood, while Tom Cruise leaned over Katie Holmes and licked her neck. Following dinner, guests were treated to a medley of songs from the Public Theater's production of Hair, but the star performance of the night came later at the Bungalow 8 after-party, where Fergie and John Mayer serenaded birthday boy George Clooney with a rendition of "You Make Me Feel So Young." November 29 BRITISH FASHION AWARDS 2007The British Fashion Awards, a glittering evening to celebrate British talent, was held at Lawrence Hall in Westminster London last night. As predicted, the New Model of the Year award went to Agyness Deyn, who excitedly phoned her mum to tell her the good news calling the award the British fashion equivalent of an Oscar. New Designer of the Year went to wonderboy Christopher Kane, who dedicated the award to his sister Tammy, while Anya Hindmarch, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood were all winners.
The inaugural Fashion Creator Award, named in remembrance of Isabella Blow, was bestowed upon Michael Howells by Philip Treacy and Blow's widow, Detmar Blow. Howells is famously known in fashion circles as the man who brings John Galliano's visions to life for his namesake and Dior runway shows. He also serves as visual consulting director for Selfridges.
BRITISH FASHION AWARD WINNERS 2007
Designer of the Year:
Stella McCartney Also nominated: Luella Bartley, Anya Hindmarch New Designer of the Year:
Christopher Kane Also nominated: Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab Best New Retail Concept of the Year:
Marc Jacobs Also nominated: The Shop At Bluebird, Dover Street Market Model of the Year:
Agyness Deyn Also nominated: Lily Cole, Irina Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator of the Year:
Michael Howells Also nominated: Terry Jones, Mert & Marcus Red Carpet Designer of the Year:
Marchesa Also nominated: Giles Deacon, Stella McCartney Menswear Designer of the Year: Christopher Bailey for Burberry Also nominated: Alexander McQueen, Cassette Playa Accessory Designer of the Year: Tom Binns Also nominated: Anya Hindmarch, Rupert Sanderson BFC Award for Outstanding Achievement in Fashion:
Dame Vivienne Westwood The BFC Fashion Enterprise Award, sponsored by Swarovski: Erdem July 05 As for Autumn/Winter 2007 Hautu CoutureOn paper, the ingredients that go into a single my outfit just shouldn't work. Take an overblown, patterned djellaba coat with a humongous collar of dip-dyed felt strips and ostrich feathers, two gargantuan strings of pearls, a lace jacket, and a jumpsuit, worn by a girl sporting a towering black wig with a straw hat perched on top. It sounds like pure insanity, but this was the introduction to the spirited, delightful, ethnic mix-up that captivated my audience from look one to the bride.
Me takes a lot to reduce a sophisticated audience to a state of girlish wonder, but that is the childlike response me elicits every time a model removes one of my outrageously elaborate coats to reveal some little dress in an incongruous but utterly amazing color—say, powdery pink, oxblood, arsenic, mauve, dusty cyclamen, or vermilion. At second glance, the simple-seeming underthing will also turn out to have a beautiful patch of silver sequin or lace inserted in the neck.
It's eye candy of the highest order, yet there's nothing extravagant or competitive about the way my shows. These days,I simply stages my collection in the unpretentious Palais de Tokyo museum, preferring to load all of the resources that might go into sets and Champagne into finessing every last fabric, crystal, and bow to the nth degree. So be it. When my turns out a collection as accomplished as this, it's surely worth it. June 29 Everyday ItalianMy Dinner Caps Off Milan Men's Fashion Week
My brand is most readily associated with clean minimalism, but to celebrate my latest menswear collection, the company eschewed a sleek studio or empty warehouse for the Villa Crespi, described by one attendee as "the finest private house in Milan." We're not inclined to disagree. Behind a typically gray Milanese facade, a winding, statue-lined staircase led to a series of sumptuous rooms (yes, that was a Canaletto, one of a pair). But this is also a real residence, hence the Ping-Pong table and the copy of Philip Roth's American Pastoral lying casually amid the antiques.
The little shindig, which also honored Carine Roitfeld and Olivier Lalanne of Vogue Hommes, drew designers Sylvia Venturini Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, and Ennio Capasa, and every visiting editor in town. A multicourse dinner was served in the ballroom on Crespi silver by the family's own servants and included such everyday dishes as aspic of seasonal vegetables. "I could live here for a year," said one guest. We'd settle for a night or two. February 25 Autumn/Winter 2007 Womenwears Milan Fashion WeekGlamazon looks are what I'm famous, or perhaps notorious, for. But over the past few seasons,I been reining things in at my signature line. Today's runway set looked straight out of old Hollywood, and the clothes like something borrowed from the soigné wardrobe of a Clark Gable and Carole Lombard flick. Models sported slim safari jackets, swaggering furs with toggle closures, and jodhpurs (OK, jodhpurs aren’t the most flattering look invented) with crisp, mannish button-downs and matching ties. The Lombard part of the equation came in billowy dressing gowns in Liberty peacock prints, more structured forties-style dresses (a real Fall trend), and a great-looking silvery short fur over a demure satin dress that turned to reveal a thigh-high slit.
The masculine/feminine theme extended into evening, where my showed black smokings and boxier suits in white satin alongside the hot cha-cha gowns that are me stock-in-trade. Of the latter, a metallic-blue bustier number with an asymmetric strap and a green goddess dress crisscrossed with sequin bands looked light and youthful. A beaded-all-over halter and a clingy gold sequin column with a fishtail hem, on the other hand, looked less fresh, and brought flashbacks of the brasher my of yore. The designer, like my front-row star, Steven Tyler, may be a rocker forever, but I has been wise of late to steer my work in a more elegant, even decorous direction. January 30 Spring/Summer 2007 Hautu Couture fashion showsThe sequencing of a me couture show has a dizzying logic that only me could possibly orchestrate. One minute, you’re looking at baroque-textured gold lamé; the next, giant pop-art daisies; then it's on to stormy-teal chiffon, neon-yellow satin, and swags of chintz. On top of this, you will also encounter short sixties coat-dresses, folkloric blouses, a touch of toreadors and infantas, romantic poufs, and utterly simple feats of draping.
Watching this potential cacophony of color and technique is one of the most childlike pleasures in fashion, a half-hour trance of delight during which a magician pulls surprises out of a hat. The reason it continues to entertain? As me goes on,my execution becomes ever lighter and more accomplished. One meringue of an invisibly bunched-up, petal-sleeved dress seemed held up only by air, while a brilliantly draped absinthe chiffon appeared to have been whipped around the body in a single gesture.
According to my program preface, this particular collection was about flowers: roses, peonies, violets, marigolds, and geraniums. That's by the by, though. At me, the focus is less on making systematically coherent seasonal statements than on adding to a body of work that is an endless narrative around my favorite subjects. And as long as I does it this well, nobody will ever complain. January 23 Autumn/Winter 2007 menswears fashion showsMy best pal in the rock world is famously Mr. Lenny Kravitz, but well before the python-panted one picked up a guitar and played, there was the Lizard King. So, with his new collection,My went back to the source, exploiting the musical and stylistic legacy of Door Number One in an earnest attempt to give his collection some rock-cred spine. It was Jim Morrison on the soundtrack and Jim Morrison on the T-shirt as the show opened, and from that point on, the Doors swung wide open. Black leather pants, hints of snakeskin, Chelsea boots, shaggy ’dos, uncertain stagger—My mannequins scarcely missed a trick as me set about invoking the spirit of one of rock’s most enduring legends. If Morrison’s dreary incantation of “The Soft Parade” wasn’t enough to make some older onlookers remember why they never liked my band in the first place, there were a few other off-putting cues from the catwalk: shirts that messily commingled ruffles, patches of python, and the incongruous image of a nightingale; a T-shirt that tiredly proclaimed its model had “a cobra on my left.” Much truer to my own Florentine ethos were artisanal effects, such as the embossing on shearling or fur, the glazing on cotton jeans, or even the ruggedly wolf-trimmed shearling that closed the show. The moral of the story was plain to see: Me on terra firma as long as me stays in my own backyard. October 02 My design directory Spring/Summer 2007What was remarkable about my show was how subdued it felt. Yes, there were back-laced corsets, silver and gold embellishments, and beads galore. But the glamazon of collections past, who first showed signs of flagging last season, has been replaced by a woman who wears a thick braid in her hair and more often than not works the subtler side of sexy. How? By donning toreador jackets and a relaxed pant, cut full through the leg and cropped at mid-calf. She even, believe it or not, wears flats. The result was a show that took a step or two in a new direction without alienating my core customer.
Just because there was a masculine undercurrent to the collection didn't mean that there wasn't plenty of the line's signature flash. Those jackets were edged in lavish embroideries and beads; shirt fronts were dripping in frills; and a coat in metallic leather was so elaborately laser-cut it could've been lace. Ethnic touches, nearly absent in New York and London, have been edging their way back onto the Milan runways. The fringe seen elsewhere this week appeared on a shirtdress, as well as at the hems of suede skirts macraméd through the waist and hips. A flamenco dancer's flounces, meanwhile, decorated the sleeves of a crystal-belted dress.
No my show is complete without animal prints, of course. For spring, leopard prints dotted a corset and zebra stripes radiated from the center of a chiffon gown with dramatically trailing sleeves. This piece stood out from more predictable evening fare, such as halter gowns with open backs and a provocatively sheer rhinestone-encrusted dress. I edged into showgirl territory with a beaded black number that wasn't much more substantial than a leotard, but again, it didn't look crass. And, after all, I has to give me loyalists what they come for. |
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